There are lots of different options – a standard ‘dalek’ compost bin, home-made ‘pallet’ bin, a wormery or just a covered heap in a quiet corner. All these methods work best when the bin is in direct contact with the soil, creating a warm, safe place for nature to work her magic. Turning the heap will increase the rate at which compost is formed, but it usually takes about a year.  

Another option is a ‘hotbin’. These are an expensive but speedy way to create compost. They have a base, so can be placed on hard standing and, due to the higher temperatures maintained, can produce compost in around three months. 

It is true that the more space you have, the more opportunities there are for composting. The ‘classic’ set up is usually three bins or more, each with compost rotting down in different stages. Most of us, however, haven’t got room to do this but this doesn’t mean home composting is off the agenda. Wormeries, for example, are much smaller than standard bins and are very effective in providing friable compost, plus a ‘tea’ which when diluted, can be used to feed your plants. 

There is another system called Bokashi. This is a bit different to ordinary composting, in that it uses anaerobic fermentation to break down kitchen waste including meat. The resulting ‘pre-compost’ is very acidic and can be added to traditional compost bins or to the soil – although it is advisable not to plant there for a few weeks. 

All kitchen vegetable scraps, pet bedding (only from herbivores like rabbits), annual weeds, tea/coffee, grass clippings, small amounts of kitchen roll, eggshells, garden pruning's and fruit peelings. The trick to creating your ‘black gold’, is to have a good mix of ‘brown’ (prunings, paper etc) and ‘green’ (grass clippings, annual weeds etc). If you don’t have a mix of both, you’ll either have a heap that is too dry (too much ‘brown’) or a slimy, wet splodge (too many grass clippings). 

If you have invested in a ‘hotbin’ you can add almost anything, including meat scraps. For ‘cold’ composting (which is every other method) don’t add meat as this may harbour disease, and don’t add grain (rice, bread etc) as this will attract rodents. 

If you are concerned your compost bin might attract rats, the best thing to do is regularly turn the contents. Rats hate disturbance and the turning action will also increase the speed at which the composting process will occur. 

You can make also make ‘teas’ to feed to your plants. As previously mentioned, wormeries are great for creating liquid feeds, but you can also simply use a bucket. Just add lots of plant leaves, weigh them down with a brick, add just enough water to cover them and after about a month you will have a nutritious plant tonic. Be warned, this can be a very smelly process! I strongly recommend having a lid on the bucket and store it outside where it won’t cause offence. 

Leaves which are great for this: 

- Nettles provide a super source of nitrogen, calcium and magnesium for your leafy plants 

- Comfrey is a source of potassium so a great tomato feed 

Remember to dilute before using on your plants - one part tea to nine parts water is a good ratio. 

Another high potassium feed can be made by fermenting chopped up banana skins. Unless you eat a lot of bananas, it's probably best to ferment these in a jar rather than a bucket. After 2-3 weeks the plant tonic can be used diluted 50:50 with water. 

It is unlikely that you will be able to create enough compost to fulfil all your growing needs, but every little helps! By composting we: 

- Reduce the need to buy more plastic packaged plant feed 

- Reduce our carbon footprint by not using peat or chemicals 

- Recycle green waste into ‘black gold’ 

- Create a soil improver packed with helpful fungi and other invertebrates. 

- Provide a home for slow worms and bumblebees 

- Provide food for birds, reptiles and amphibians